But we were headed directly into paradise -- Paradise, Michigan, that is. A tiny, tiny little town located on the edge of Lake Superior and Whitefish Point in Michigan’s Upper Peninsula, it’s a popular destination for a summer getaway, or winter sledders. (That’s what they call snow mobilers up there.) However, it’s October. So...we pretty much arrived when most of the town was literally closed for the season. There was one bar/restaurant open and one bakery/diner/gift shop that was open for breakfast and lunch. It was a getaway for my friend, Beth, and I, and boy, did we get away. Away from all civilization!
We arrived at our hotel and found the owners/managers were gone for the evening. So, they did what any proprietor would do… they left the key to the room with a personal hand-written note taped to the outside of the office door. And yes, it was an actual key, not one of those credit-card thingys. Now that is small-town living. (Eh. We’ll just pay, whenever…)
Knowing our desperate need for caffeine in the morning, we stopped in at the convenience store/gas station to get some fancy creamer for our coffee. It was a good thing too, because it was only open until 9 p.m. (Because who needs gas or anything convenient after 9 p.m., right?) We also purchased some snacks and a corkscrew to open the many bottles of wine we had purchased at various Traverse City wineries which were the first stops on our little getaway up north. (But really, who needs another blog or review of the Michigan Wineries...right? I mean, they are fabulous! Enough said.) The adorable 20-something-year-old behind the counter kind of looked at us sideways and intuitively said, “You two aren’t from aroun’ here…are ya?” Huh. What gave us away? Was it the fact that we were two, non-hunter chicks traveling together and we weren’t wearing down jackets and plaid? Or perhaps it was the blue streaks running through my blonde hair, or Beth's stylish feathers she had weaved into hers? (No, she’s not a fly fisherman.) We teasingly replied, “How’d ya guess? Come on! What girls wouldn’t want a trip to Paradise? It’s a cool place, right?” He kind of shook his head in disbelief and raised his eyebrows at us as he muttered, “Yeah…in the summer.”
I'm pretty sure he thought we were crazy.
We asked him if the bar was still open because it looked dark, closed-up and, well...as Beth had put it, haunted. He nodded, “Well, I just talked to Bob over there, so it must still be.” Ah. Okay then.
We dropped off our purchases in our room and then walked across the street to the bar/restaurant known as the Yukon Inn. There were about six people in there, along with the waiter and the bartender. Boy…did we attract attention! As we sat down in the lodge-inspired, wooden booth in the rustic (and slightly drafty) Yukon Inn, I leaned across the table and said, “I feel like I’m in an episode of Northern Exposure.” And I wasn’t kidding! I’m pretty sure the waiter (who took excellent care of us) also prepared our food. There were about eight items on the menu, including burgers, chicken fingers, a fish sandwich, chili, grilled cheese, grilled ham and cheese and that was about it. Of course, they also offered some appetizers and the bar was fully stocked with every kind of liquor imaginable. Opting to not order their special bison burger (yes, it’s made from actual buffalo) I chose the safer, regular old cheeseburger with bacon. Prepared with special attention and served hot, it wasn’t anything out of the ordinary or particularly Paradise-ish (is that a word?) But, it was made to order and served with friendliness. And, two bucks will get you any draft on tap…the same price as the pop.
Then next morning, we awakened to the sun rising over Lake Superior in the brisk, fall weather and it was amazing. We sipped our coffee and just enjoyed the quiet. The peaceful, cold, quiet. Although our hotel was right on the main road which was adjacent to the lake, there was no sound from the street.
Because there were no cars.
It was almost as if the town was deserted. Those that were there were either hunters or permanent residents of Paradise. That day, we trekked all over the up north woods…out to Whitefish Bay, along the scenic By-way route along the Lake Superior coastline, and into Tahquamenon State Park to see the great ‘root beer’ falls. Beth was on the lookout for Moose. I, on the other hand, was sure I was going to spot Big Foot. (Hey…stranger things have happened!) Cameras in one hand, coffee in the other, we took in all of the untouched nature around us. (Paying special attention to moose prints and what may or may not have been Sasquatch prints…)
The last time I was that far north was when I was a kid and I bet not much has changed. It really is amazing country up there. If you’ve never been, you should go. The colors were spectacular. Shades of gold, orange, red, brown, yellow and green were like prisms of sunbursts all around us. And where there weren’t any coppery fall colors, there were majestic green pines -- the tallest pines I’ve ever seen! It smells like Christmas and the beach all at once. One of my friends lovingly called Lake Superior the fifth ocean. It truly is a beautiful coastline.
We scoured the beach for cool stones; we walked through hiking trails and simply sat in silence. We enjoyed another night at the Yukon Inn and the place was surprisingly hoppin’. The juke box blared Madonna and Bon Jovi and everyone, including Beth and myself, screamed along with the lyrics. We enjoyed a cocktail or four…but who’s counting? And hey, there were only three T.V. channels up there! Once it got dark, there wasn’t much else to do!
It was a time to be with my friend. A time to reflect. A time to be creative and artistic. It was a time to think about all I had accomplished, and all I hope to still accomplish. It was a time to get inspired, and a time to enjoy the peace. If you’ve never been to the Upper Peninsula, you should pay it a visit. Its small-town living, beautiful landscapes, quiet atmosphere, gorgeous colors and breathtaking coastline will draw you in and wrap you in its warmth. But if you can’t get up there, go take a walk on a trail near your home. Appreciate the natural beauty and miracles that are all around you. Find the joy in your surroundings. And maybe you’ll find something else you’ve been looking for. To quote our theme song of the weekend,
“So goodbye for a while I'm off to explore
Every boundary and every door
Yeah I'm going north…
Up where the hunted hide with ease
Under the arms of eye-less trees
Up where the answers fall like leaves…I’m going north.”
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